Cortese’s territory was once part of the city-state of Genoa, and still the grape practically owes more allegiance to Liguria than the region who grows it: Piedmont. At the far southeastern corner of Piedmont, in the province of Alessandria, Cortese was first recorded in the early 17th century and has no known relatives. It is most highly regarded in this locations today, know as Gavi, and because of its freshness as well as in best cases, chalky minerality, commonly populates the fish restaurants’ wine lists of the Ligurian coast. Cortese grows well in other parts of Piedmont: Cortese dell’Alto Monferrato a few miles west and just over a few hills to the east, in the Colli Tortonesi. But there Cortese doesn’t always achieve the ripeness, or get the winemaking proficiency that it does when grown on the limestone-rich soils of Gavi. While some renowned Barolo producers produce stellar Gavi, such as Michele Chiarlo and Pio Cesare, the region has no shortage of its own dedicated producers.